Ok it's not going to be the most comprehensive details of building a production car, but it will get you on the track and through the scrutineering process.

Ok you've got your choice of car. (pictures are just as a guide)

 

 

 

 

First things first, totally strip it out, and that means everything, the lights, windows, seats, dashboard, carpets, sealtbelts, all the trim, every last nut, bolt and washer that does not need to be there, and all the wiring loom that can possibly be removed but still allow the car to be started.

 

 

 

 

 

It's then down to you how far you go with cutting out extra items such as seat mounting brackets, centre console additional plating, inner skins of the doors, inner skin of the bonnet etc. There is no real guide as to how much you can cut out but the car needs to still remain "safe".

You will then need to work out how good the actual construction of the car is, such as is the floor safe to fix in a roll cage, will the cills withstand the rigors of the track and in the worst case a crash? If you don't feel that the car is "sound" in it's construction you will have to strengthen things up, the car in the above photo had all its floor pans replaced and the front cross member.

You then need to consider employing someone who has experience in the roll cage building field to construct a cage for you. As a basic guide to what is required please see the photos below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please note, to comply to SAA and SEGTO build rules, the four corners of the base of the frame must have a 4 inch x 4 inch plate fitted to the bottom of the frame which must be bolted or welded to the car. The minimum diameter of the roll bar cage is 1 1/4" (30mm) with a minimum thickness of 12swg.

Once this is fitted to the car you can if you choose, fit wheel arches and skirts as in the picture below

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The windscreen will need to be meshed, with a gauge no larger than 1 inch square mesh.

You can also if you choose fill in the old light sockets to the front and rear of the car. There should not be any rough edges left which could cause injury to anyone.

Under the bonnet, ALL holes that run into the inner of the car should be fire proofed.

In other words they must all be filled up. Plating all the holes is the best option. The only holes that should remain, are holes that have the fuel lines, brake lines and electrics coming through them, and these must be grommeted to avoid chafing any cables or splitting any pipes.

As just mentioned the brake lines (rear) must run through the inside of the car and exit at the closest point to the rear wheels.

The fuel lines must be of metal construction, and the fuel tank must be situated within the confines of the roll cage. The tank itself may only contain a maximum of 2 gallons of fuel, and must have a breather hose which vents out through the floor of the car. The tank must have a positive sealing cap that would not allow leakage if inverted and must also be fixed behind a fireproof bulkhead or within a fireproof box. The original cars fuel tank must be totally removed.

Batteries may remain under the bonnet of the car as long as they are covered with a non metallic material and securley fixed. If they are fitted within the confines of the car, again they should be within the confines of the roll cage, securley fixed and fitted inside a leakproof box. This box must be segregated from the fuel tank and also covered in a non metallic material.

When wiring up the car, it is advisable to use proprietory cable and make all the end fittings as secure as possible and they undergo a lot of abuse (shaken about) when on the track.

You should in the least have a master cut off switch which is situated on the roll cage behind the drivers seat. This should be capable of killing the whole engine when switched off. Please note: depending on which way you wire up the car, the alternator may effect the cut off switch from working, you may need to consider removing the alternator so this does not happen.

 

 

 

 

As long as you have a fully charged battery at the beginning of the day there is no reason why you should need an alternator. If your unsure then always bring a second one fully charged up.

You will also need a start button to start the car and a ignition switch to power up the ignition.

 

 

 

 

Options of adding a switch to power up a fan to keep the engine cool, or you can have it as a direct feed to the ingition switch so it comes on as soon as you start the car.

 

 

 

 

Brake light are required and you must have two in the rear window area of the car which must be operational at all times.

Additionals required

Helmet to comply with our rules

Harness

Racing seat as a standard seat is not permitted.

Fire extinguisher and oil drip tray.

Once all the above have been done it's up to you to decide how much further you go to make the car competetive. What tyres? what shocks? weighting the car! style of wheels! wheel alignment! suspension! do you have the engine professionally built?

All these are matters that only you can decide on and will obviously add to the cost of your racing.

Please try and remember SAA is meant to be a form of LOW COST MOTOR RACING but really it's your choice, throw as much money at the car as you feel fit. but consider this, if you just can't drive it does'nt matter how much money you throw at it, it just won't help. So keep it cheap at first, try it, see if you like it ( and i guarantee you'll love it) and proceed from there.

Once you've done all the donkey work you can spray or hand paint the car to your choice of colour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then add some additional colour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You will then need to add the basics to comply with the track for lap scoring such as number fins, and even spruce the car up with your own imagination.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then finally the best part

 

RACE IT!!!!